Sold for $475 via Leland Little Auctions (December 2018). A piece of jewelry with an etching that reads “18k” or “750” indicates that it is made up of 75 percent gold, while a “14k” or “585” mark indicates the metal is constructed with 58.5 percent gold.ĭetail of markings on a pair of Sterling Silver, 18KT Gold, and Amethyst Earrings, Tiffany & Co. The letter “k” refers to karats, where pure gold is composed of 24 karats (24k). Purity marks on gold jewelry will consist of a two-digit number followed by the letter “k,” or a three-digit number. An important year to know if you’re collecting French antique jewelry is the year 1797, when it was required to have a maker’s mark framed within a lozenge, a diamond-shaped charge that is often placed on the field of a shield. Jewelry marks in France date back even earlier, with known examples first seen in the 13th century. Assay offices are official governmental establishments who are tasked to assay, or test, the purity of jewelry metals and in some cases, to hallmark the jewelry. Any piece of British jewelry made prior to 1999 was required to include what is known as a date letter stamp, a letter corresponding to the year that it was registered with the assay office. Today’s standards are regulated by the Hallmarking Act of 1973. Hallmarking in Great Britain has had a long history, dating back to the 14th century. In 1961, the American government also mandated that jewelry manufacturers include a maker’s mark, which indicates the producer of a piece of jewelry. In the United States, the National Gold and Silver Stamping Act of 1906 required jewelers to include an accurate purity mark, which indicates the materials used in a given piece. Sold for $3,000 via Alex Cooper (October 2017). “Retro” jewelry refers to pieces made during the 1940s and ‘50s and are characterized by the use of large and colorful gemstones.Ī Lady’s Italian 18K Bracelet with Rubies.
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To be considered an antique, a piece of jewelry must be 100 years or older, while vintage jewelry must be more than 20 years old to be classified as such.
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This jewelry hallmarks guide can help explain what those tiny etchings actually mean – and how to ensure you’re buying the real thing. Silver and gold jewelry markings are commonly known as purity marks, maker’s marks, symbols, or date letters. Often overlooked due to their intentionally hidden location and diminutive size, the etchings found inscribed on a piece of modern or vintage jewelry offer a window into the “who, what, and where” of the piece – and are well worth a serious look.įrom contemporary pieces to antique jewelry, letter markings on gold jewelry, silver, and other metals can offer useful insight on the materials, epoch, and producer of a piece.
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The study of jewelry maker’s marks is a fascinating subject, steeped in history, culture, and art.